Read my ramblings about the build of the

6" Scale Mc Laren Road Loco

Part one of the 6" Scale Mc Laren Road Loco build diary

Introduction

When we were children back in the early sixties Dad bought my brother Rodney and I a part built twin cylinder freelance 1” traction engine. We did not have the required tools or experience to complete the engine. Dad was told of an engineer who could help us by completing the engine. This was completed with the help of an engineer from Staunton on Wye named Jack Phillips. My Father contacted Jack by letter and a meeting was arranged.

We arranged to meet Jack by the post box at Staunton on Wye, Jack told us it would be easier if he took us to his house. Indeed it was we walked across two fields and several hedges until we came upon a remote cottage, Jacks Home. What an amazing place, all of the lathes milling and drilling and grinding was powered by foot using specially made treadle units. There was no electric. Jack showed us a beautiful one-inch scale showman’s engine he was building. We left the engine with Jack for several weeks. When we collected it Jack demonstrated the engine running, again foot power was used on an old car foot pump. Jack’s other talents were enormous, he would repair piano accordions radio’s etc. He could also play the accordion and a small pedal powered church organ that he had in his living room.

Following the completion of the engine by Jack the family was hooked on steam engineering. Both my brother and I would often attend the Ross on Wye steam engine rally with the engine. It was around 11/2” scale and would pull a couple of adults. We would take it in turns driving the engine around the rally field at the ages of 12 and 13. Other times at the rally I would assist a small stationary engine steam show presented by a welsh man named Bob Page. Bob would let me oil the stationary engines etc and put coal on the vertical boiler. He was such a kind man.
Dad bought a Myford lathe in the late sixties and started building a 5” Simplex locomotive to a design from Martin Evans that was featured in the “Model Engineer” at that time. Some time later Rod started building a 31/2” Rob Roy Caledonian tank engine. Both Dad and Rod went on to complete their engines. Dad later built a 5-inch GWR Manor locomotive and a four inch Foster Traction engine. Rod later built a three-inch and four-inch traction engine followed by a couple of railway engines. His latest engine was the excellent six-inch Burrell Scenic Showman’s engine called Snapdragon. Old Glory did a fine article on this in the mid 1990s.

Snapdragon

(built by Rod)

During my teenage years I would often steer a Steam tractor owned by the late Derrick Hackett who had a large collection of steam tractors at Ross on Wye. Dai Morgan the undertaker from Pontrialas would drive the engine and I would steer. Several times we went from Ross on Wye to the Bromyard Gala and back towing the typical green living van to sleep in because it was a two-day event. I recall the travelling speed was around ten miles an hour. Collecting water en route was interesting, as was the ploughman’s lunch at the pub on the way.

Steering a full size tractor was quite hard but also interesting. The tendency to over steer is hard to conquer, eventually after much prompting by Dai I found that playing with the slack in the steering chain was enough to keep us on the road. After a while you tended to loose concentration, Dai told me that it was easy for him to notice because the chimney would start weaving from side to side. He usually gave a gentle prod with his elbow to cure the steering problems. These days were very memorable, I was fortunate to have such experience.

I believe the engine I drove was an ex Herefordshire council Aveling and Porter road loco. Maybe someone could verify this. Also where is the engine now? I know it survived into preservation. It would be nice to see the engine again. I recall the road speed was about 10 miles per hour.

Amendment to Diary,
Thanks to the kind e mail I received from Mr Hedwin Jones I now know more information about the Aveling Traction Engine I used to drive. Mr Stuart Gray now owns it and I believe the engine is based in Hitchin Hertfordshire.

Reproduced with courtesy of Steam-up.co.uk is the following photo and information for the engine.

1920 Aveling & Porter 4 nhp Colonial Steam Tractor - Clementine

Aveling & Porter Steam Ltd
1920 Aveling & Porter 4 nhp Colonial Steam Tractor - Clementine
Works No. 9225. Reg. No. CJ 4160
The colonial tractor was a class of engine built by several engine manufacturers to satisfy a demand in the Colonies for road haulage tractors of a heavier than normal construction and with the ability to burn a wider range of fuels than the engines made for the home market. This road tractor was new to Hereford County Council and was one of three similar engines supplied to them; all three of which are preserved and regularly seen at rallies today. Clementine was used on council business until 1939, hauling road building materials, etc. From 1939 until the mid 1950s she was used commercially, primarily for threshing, in Herefordshire but was then laid-up until sold for preservation under the name "Hereford Belle". Following an early attempt at a showman's conversion she was restored to her original condltion and is now presented as an authentic example of a very popular engine, particularly liked by those who had the fortune to drive them. By traction engine standards these steam tractors are fast on the road, travelling at about 12 m.p.h. on the level, and were advertised, rather optimistically, as capable of pulling a load of about 10 tons.

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My first attempt at model engineering was a 3” traction engine to the design of HR Plastow. This model was later completed by Rod. Eventually in the early eighties I managed to set up my own workshop and built a 71/4 “ 0-6-0 Holmside tank engine. This was the first engine I had built and completed and was extremely happy to own my own steam locomotive. I bought the copper boiler and fittings, which allowed quick build time of nine months from, start to finish.

Holmside 7-1/4” Tank Locomotive

(By Colin Dix 1983)

The second engine that I built was a 5” Royal Scot Rebuilt painted in LMS 1946 black livery with red and straw coloured lining. This locomotive won a Sliver medal and the Crebin memorial cup at the 1989 Alexandria Palace model engineering Exhibition. This was an extremely rewarding model to build, I got a great deal of satisfaction during the construction and completion of the model.

5” Gauge Royal Scott Locomotiv

(By Colin Dix 1988)

A period of ten years passed with my departure from this type of engineering due to work and travel commitments. I decided to build a Road Locomotive, the bigger the engine the better it would be in my opinion. I have young children and grandchildren who I would love to see driving such an engine and getting the same pleasure as Rod and I did at such an early age. A large engine would allow us all to ride on it maybe?

 

Mc Laren Build Diary

I contacted Alf Franklin and Wayne Bell at Franklin and Bell the boiler makers in Gloucester. Alf and Wayne had built 4” Foster boilers for dad and I. Alf and Wayne pointed me in the right direction and I made contact with Mick Beadle at Double B designs. Dealing with Mick was interesting, after discussing the vital statistics of their half scale Maclaren road locomotive Mick kindly sent me some drawings completely free of charge and without commitment. I had left England to work in Asia before they had arrived, the drawings were hand carried out to Japan by a colleague of mine.

Several weeks of drooling over the drawings resulted in me placing an order with Double B Designs for enough materials to stand the engine on its wheels including the smokebox and chimney. Adding the tender to this would let me see in advance how wonderfully large the engine will be.

Mick delivered the materials to my home on 17 December, building work commenced the next day. The front and rear wheel rims were welded and the hubs machined. In parallel with my work the pre-prepared boiler kit was being assembled at Franklin and Bell in Gloucester. During the Christmas holiday the front and rear hubs were faced ready for slotting the spoke recess.

Full size traction engine wheels were usually built by casting the iron hub over the spoke and rim assembly. This used to allow the hub to be bored and finished to complete the wheel. This is not practical in model engineering and the wheels are generally made up from several parts. The Rims are rolled from strip and welded, the tee rings are usually strip rolled on edge. All this is then assembled by welding the tee rings in the outer rim.

Welded Rims Hubs & Rims

I wanted to fit rubber tyres to the engine to allow quiet running on the roads. I had a 40 mm layer of rubber vulcanised to all four of the rims. This was only rough trimmed after vulcanising. More about the final finish of this later

The hubs on the Mc Laren are made up from three parts, outer cover, inner hub and inner cover. Double B care has been taken to follow how the full size wheel will look when completed. The front inner hubs and covers are machined at an angle to allow the spokes to point directly at the tee ring without bending the spoke where it leaves the hubs.

These front hubs were machined on a large centre lathe with a long cross slide. This allowed me to set the compound slide to the cutting angle and cut both the inner hubs and covers with the same angular setting. The hubs were machined with the lathe running backwards, the cover plates were done running forward. This used quite a lot of travel, as you would expect. The castings provided by Double B Designs were of excellent quality and were easily machined. The slots for the spokes were also cut at the same angle, this was done in a large milling machine using a rotary table packed up at the correct angle. I was glad when the final slot was cut due to the fear of the whole setup moving.

Front Hub on Angled rotary table

The horn plates were drilled ready to accept the boiler using a large universal milling machine. Dummy rivets were added to the horns to recreate the effect of a fully riveted boiler. The belly tank mountings and ash pan brackets were added. The Boiler was completed and tested by early march. I had the large inner-outer firebox stays machined accurately to the boiler tube. The horn plates are the mountings for the three rotating shafts and need to be as accurate as possible.

Completed and Tested Boiler

(With Tony Bell, Wayne Bell, Alf Franklin, John Gage)

Fitting the horn plates to the boiler was quite a task. The boiler was packed up on a flat table and the plates accurately located to drill and tap the threaded holes into the firebox stays. When this was done I noticed the horn plates were not flat! How would I straighten a piece of 8 mm plate nearly one metre square?

My method of straightening them was quite unique. I had a Nuffield 4/65 tractor parked in my back yard which I believed weighed around two tons. I placed the horn plates onto a large block and a trolley jack below the tractor tow bar and used the tow bar as a cantilever. I found that after jacking up the plate until both wheels of the tractor were off the ground I did not have enough weight to completely straighten them. Eventually I got them straightened by standing on the back end of the tractor and bouncing the tractor up and down, all balancing on a trolley jack! Hell what a task!

Laser cut parts for the tender sides and belly tank was obtained. Again the design of the tender follows the original very accurately. The brake shaft is supported by a casting, which has flanges that attach to the tender sides. This casting was nicely cored out to allow the shaft to pass through. The inner and outer flanges are machined to fit the width of the tender.

tender brake shaft.

The Coal tubs were made up from rolled components and a laser cut disc. I think the bottom of the tub on the original was a dished plate pressed from steel. To re-create this effect I welded the laser cut disc into a rolled section of 40 x 6 mild steel. The weld was dressed with an angle grinder then the disc was placed into a centre lathe and the outer diameter and radius was cut. This base was a nice fit into the steel cylinders that make up the tubs. Lots of 3/16” and ¼” rivets attach the base and reinforcing ring to the tubs.

Rollings for Tubs

Complete Coal Tubs

One needs to be fairly athletic to build an engine of this size, every single part of it is large and heavy. While assembling the rear wheels I had to turn them over on the workbench, It took all the strength of my neibour Trevor and I to turn the wheel over, even then I thought it was very dangerous due to the weight.

Rear wheel during assembly with one side of spokes fitted

Additional weight is then added when the outer covers are added along with the massive final drive gears. Bending the spokes for the wheels was done in a fly-press with a home made jig. This allowed me to get all the spokes bent to the correct angle with the same radii on each bend. Taking care during the build is essential when you are expecting a first class representation of the full size engine. And of course you want the wheel to run nicely!

There are casting available for the gears, all casting are truly authentic in appearance. To make these into a set of gears is simply a matter of turning the casting to the finished size and get your local gear-cutting engineer cut them. Five of the gears have 1-7/8” squares cut into them. This is to allow them to slide on shafts for engaging the required gear. The squares were cut with wire spark erosion.

Second Shaft With 2nd & 3rd sliding Gears

Spark erosion produces a highly accurate cut to which the squares on the shafts could be matched. The Mc Laren has three speeds, High, Medium and Low. To shift the gears into mesh the gearshift is done with three rack and pinions. Most gear cutting engineering company’s like to cut gear racks with teeth continuously along the length. For the racks in this engine we only need 6 and seven teeth. Also only five and six teeth on the pinions. Double B cut the rack and pinion gears for me and saved me a great deal of trouble.

The Mc Laren is a three-shaft engine. This is the number of rotating shafts to the final drive on the rear wheels. Three shaft engines rotate backwards to travel forward. The three bearing housings, Crankshaft, second and third all needed line boring to allow for any misalignment of the hornplates. I could not find an adjustable reamer that was long enough for the jobs so I improvised and tried a boring bar driven with a powerful electric hand drill. I prepared tapered cones to locate the boring shaft centrally within the pre-bored bearing housings. After all I only need to take out 30 thou. I found this worked quite well as long as light cuts were taken. The shape of the cutter was important too. The cutter was a nice radiused tool that cut smoothly without digging in.

Improvised in-line Boring Bar

The Mother of all Crankshafts

When I started the build in December 2002 Mick Beadle (from Double B) told me they were still working to complete the detailing, casting patterns and design of this model. It looked like a mammoth task to accomplice, especially with me travelling to work abroad some ten times or more, and usually for two to three weeks at a time each year.

During the build period I managed to catch up and be in front of the design team at Double B. I used to call Mick from Asia and ask what new castings were released. When patterns were ready Mick would soon have me a set of castings. On my return the castings would be machined and fitted to the engine in double quick time. Mick would often joke with me by saying “I will be glad when you go away again so I can get some peace and quiet”.

Unfortunately Mick passed away in 2002. Double B Designs still continued with the design of the fabulous “6 Mc Laren. By January 2002, the only major components I needed to complete the engine were the Cylinder Block and Crankshaft. Terry Baxter from Double B gave a delivery date for the cylinder for Easter 2003. I though it would be nice to have the crank fitted with the flywheel, drive gears, eccentric’s etc in preparation. So the mother of all tasks was about to start. I decided to cut the Crank from Solid.

The late Mick Beadle during one of his delivery visit’s

The choice of steel for the crank had to be En40b. En40b is Chrome Vanadium Nitriding steel that has core strength of 55-65 Tons per square inch. Additionally the Nitriding process adds a surface hardening of superior quality. Most Competition or Racing engines used in Motor Sport use this material due to its quality.

The steel as a billet was 220 mm diameter (9 inches) by 1456 mm (37 inches) long and weighed a calculated 281 Kgs. This was far too heavy for me to machine. I decided to get the billet supplied and machined by a local Company in the Forest of Dean called JM Grail Engineering.

Grails used CNC machining to reduce the billet to the form shown below in the photo of the part mounted in the improvised bandsaw.
The profiled crank billet was still a two-man task to carry it or lift it into the boot of the car. En40b is really tough steel to machine. I decided that standing by a milling machine to reduce the two centre parts to form the crank webs and crank pins would not be a good use of my time. So I decided to try and improvise my 4-inch hobby band saw to allow it to cut of the large lumps of surplus metal. The top lift part of the saw was removed and mounted onto a large frame that allowed me to stand the crank vertically and saw chunks of metal away.

Surplus metal removal with improvised bandsaw

This proved to be very successful. It allowed me to continue with other workshop tasks allowing the saw to slowly cut away on it’s own. Removing the excess metal took two whole days with the bandsaw. I later found out that this was a good investment in saving milling cutters etc.

One item on a crankshaft that can cause concern is how to form the crank pins and hold the metal for machining. To allow the correct orientation of the crank pins I had arranged two full diameter flanges each end of the billet with four one inch holes positioned at 90 degrees to the centre. (See fig 1). These would be used as reference for the crank webs and later to form the crank pins. The billet was mounted in the milling machine vice and positioned in preparation for machining.

The first task was to machine the crankshaft webs. These are at 90 degrees on this engine with the Low-pressure crank pin leading in forward gear. This was my first attempt at machining En40b. Wow this was tough stuff to cut. The milling cutter used was a replaceable insert Tungsten Carbide cutter. I soon found that the life of the cutter was quite short, even with copious amounts of cutting fluid.

Cutting Crank webs with milling machine

I decided that I should leave the crank pins and shaft diameters 3mm (“1/8) oversize at this stage because of the risk of distortion due to the inherent stresses in the material. After completely roughing out the crank the billet was sent for stress relieving. The billet was supported inside a large oven and heated to 550 centigrade for four hours. Followed by slow natural cooling.

Crank mounted to machine the crankpins

My nice shiny billet was as black as coal. To machine the crank pins I used a large rotary table mounted on it’s side on the bed of the milling machine to bolt one end of the crank (flange). The other end was supported using a ball bearing race (one inch bore) mounded in a steel support on an angle plate. This allowed me to rotate and mill the crank pins and finish the inner face of the crank webs. This was an interesting job, it was nice to see the crank pins slowly appear in the webs. I left the crank pins ten thousands of an inch oversize for grinding. The crankshaft was removed from the mill and re-mounted in preparation for machining the other crank pin.

Removal of Large redundant Flanges after machining

Following the machining of the crankpins the large flanges at each end of the crank was no longer required. These were cut off using the bandsaw. The ends of the crank were machined clean following this.
The crankshaft was delivered to Moss Engineering at Ledbury. Mr. Moss the proprietor has had many years of refurbishing combustion engine components. He was quite intrigued to find a new crankshaft for a half size traction engine. The crank pins were finish ground to two inches diameter using a standard crankshaft-grinding machine.

The final details of the crank were added, this was various diameters to locate the eccentrics, drive gears and flywheel along with a “1-7/8 square for bottom gear on the off side. The square was draw filled to allow a good fit on the pre-machined low gear. All of these shaft diameters were left 0.012 thou oversize for finish grinding. The shaft was finish ground to size by CRI Grinding in Gloucester. To complete the crankshaft I added three keyway’s to the shaft. These are used for the Medium and High Gear sprocket. Both of these were cut including the slot for the Flywheel Key.

To sum up the work in weight of metal removed, the stock bar was 281 Kgs (618 lbs.) The finished crank weighs only 27.3 Kgs (60.2 lbs.) or about 1/2 CWT. Well in reality were talking about the weight of ten bags of spuds converted into swarf or just surplus chunks. I now have my crankshaft ready to fit the valve gear eccentric’s. Drive gears, balance weight and flywheel. More of that later!

Partially completed crank ready for Grinding

August 2003 progress update!

A lot of water has passed under the bridge recently and not much progress has happened following the completion of the crankshaft. However I have recieved the cylinder block casting and now it is machined. I still have to machine the slide valves and make the exhaust pipe flange to complete this assembly.

The block was machined using the Kearn's boring machine at Allen's workshop. The black was mounted on its side and the casting was adjusted until it was square and perpendicular to the table. The first operation was to machine the top surface. Following the machining of the top surface the cylinder was mounted on this nicely machined surface. This allowed the block to be securely clamped to the table and set up to allow machining on the two cylinder bores, the boiler mounting radius and the front face to mount the trunk guides and front covers. This is a good way of ensuring all the bores are inline!

Cylinder mounted during machining

(Apoligies for the mess of tools, this is a busy operation, note the WD40, do you know this is an excellant lubrication for threading cast iron. It prevents tearing of the material as the thread is produced!)

In this photo the bores and boiler mounting radius has been machined. The table on the Kearn's will rotate and index accurately. The table is moved after this operation to allow the slide valve faces to be machined along with the front cover face. The holes for mounting the trunk guides were added using calculated cordinates, moving the table until the the digital Readout indicated the correct position then drill the holes etc. This allowed all holes to be in the correct position without marking out errors.

Following the machining of the block all of the holes had to be threaded and studs made for all of the many positions used. This is 32 off for the valve covers, 32 for the cylinder covers and 12 for the glands. I like to have a nice coarse thread in the cast iron for strength and a finer thread for the fastner. For this I used M6, M8 & M10 for the studs that were threaded into the cast iron. M8 will quite easily take a 5/16 UNF thread, likewise M10 will turn down and allow 3/8" UNF. I used this policy for the cylinder block.

 

Cylinder top view showing partially manufactured studs with M10 thread, 3/8UNF to be added later

In this view you can see how the trunk guides have flanges cut away to allow them to sit at the cylinder centres. The top horizontal urfaces need covering with a sheet steel to represent the lagging. The safety valve chimney mounting studs were spotfaced to allow the nuts to sit square to the mounting surface and not bind on the casting draft.

Cylinder with Trunk guides

The Trunk guides were a tough job to machine, I mounted the trunk guides in a pair of vee blocks to machine them. This seemed a nice idea, the trunks were supplied with the sides that are hollow section filled in to a thickness of around 1/8". This was done to support the pattern for stability. Anyway, when this is machined clear the trunk guides are quite vunerable to distortion from any external clamping forces. I completly machined the trunk guides only to find that after releasing them from the worktable they had moved and ther nice fit I had for the crossheads was now a poor fit by several thousands of an inch. I rectified this problem by machining the crossheas to allow a circular brass slipper that can be adjusted with shims just like the full size engines. this can be seen in the following photo.

Crosshead with Bronze slipper fitted!

The trunk guides needed boring slightly oversize to allow the new arrangement to work. I had to ensure this time that the trunk guides were perfectly square and surported without distortion. To do this I machined a split clamp that would clamp on the free end of the trunk guide where the conrod comes out. This would allow me to clamp the end of the guide and apply a completly circular force to support the end while I passed the cutter through. The cylinder cover end was mounted on an angle plate that had a machined locating boss. This boring machine was centred on this boss using a Dial Test Indicater. The trunk was fitted over this then surported with the clamp. A light cut was machined out of the casting to allow the bronze slippered crosshead to fit snugly. Later lubrication grooves were cut into the bronze slippers to allow the oil to collect to provide good lubrication.

Two Photo's showing the trunk guides remounted as described above to re machine the bores without causing mechanical distortion by clamping. In the right hand photo one can see the angle plate has been lightly faced after mounting to allow the trunk to be perpendicular to the boring bar, the centring pad is just visible too.

Front View of the cylinder block assembly

Bits 'n' pieces waiting to be fitted or machined, Big End Bronze, Front Wheel Cover, Slide valves, Rear cylinder covers, Boiler clacks and Crossheads

The conecting rods were machined from solid. The stock material was 3" En8 round bar. The tapered profile was turned and the corner radii was produced using HSS radius tools. The bar was 18" inches long, After turning the bar was mounted in the mill to machine the flat sections and cut out the pocket for the little end bearing.

Partially turned blank for Conrod

I decided to add adjustable small end bearings to my conrods. This entailed making three parts comprising of a Phospher bronze bush, adjusting block and wedge. The phospher bronze bush was machined out to allow the adjusting block to fit snugly.

Completed Conrod with adjustable little end bearing

These two parts and the adjusting wedge were pressed into the little end. The conrod little end bronze was then bored out to fit the crosshead pin. The next job to be done is to make the pistons and straps for the conrods. This will allow the cylinder block to be positioned onto the boiler in its final resting place.

Crank Fited to the Engine with balance weight, eccentrics and drive gears

When I thought the crank was complete I tried to fit the low gear to the 1-7/8" square. I found the square to be some twenty though oversize. This was a pain as I had already fitted the balance weight and eccentrics to the shaft. Well Ihad to machine this small amount away to allow the Low pressure eccentrics to fit over the square. The completed crank was mounted into the cente lathe to machine off the excess. As you can imagine it don't take long for the boy to come out in us and see how well the balance weight works? I managed to run the crank at 1000 RPM without any noticable vibration during machining. Nice one from Mick Beadle and Bill Kiddell for getting the design right. Only my lack of courage and the need to complete the task prevented me from testing it faster!

More bits, Valve rod's and eccentrics etc including the wayshaft bracket!

The eccntric valve rods were also cut from solid bar. I used En32b case harding steel for the valve rods. This material is nice and easy to machine but will case harden to a really tough surface that will be hard wearing and last for many years without refurbishment. This is another case of starting with a 2.5 inch bar and machining most of the material away until you have the complete part.

Wire Spark Erroded Expansion link

Terry Baxter at Double B Designs supplied the wire spark erroded exspansion links. This is a very accurate process that cuts parts to finished dimensions without any additional work. In the photo the link looks quite small. In fact it is cut from 3/4" steel plate and is over seven inches long!

Lifting Arms for the valve gear

I considered turning the lifting arms for the valve gear using specially ground form tools. Then would I get the centres right? This could cause a problem with unequal valve timing. I decided to have the turned profile machined with a CNC lathe. This would make all three identical and allow me to machine the flats, drillholes and add Keyways to complete them. I insisted that the turned section should be left attached to the stock bar with a square face. I could use an edge finder on the milling machine to determin the correct centres in the spherical turnings. When complete the end view would be presented concentric and looking good! The lifting arms were made from En32b. The ends will be case hardned after the valve gear is trial assembled. The keyway slots had to be accurately positioned. If one link lifted more than the other this would cause uneven valve timing. I trusted this process to the expert services onf a company in Malvern.

Boiler Clack Valve

The boiler clack valves were supplied as bronze castings. These castings were gripped using a four jaw chuck to perform the various machining operations. The supply to the boiler is through a 7/16" valve seat. The valve is actually a 9/16" diameter stainless steel ball. A tapered shut of cock is also a feature on this part. To cut the seat I machined the two stainless cock plugs and a piece of silver steel without moving the angle setting of the compound slide on the lathe. This method allow you to get the angle on the finished part the same as the tapered hole you will machine later. To make the silver steel part in to a D bit is quite simple, half of the tapered section is machined away. A small relief is added to the cutting edge then the part is hardened and tempered to a nice straw colour.

View showing Low Gear assembly with Rack and Pinnion

This article is under continual development. Call back later to see how the engine is progressing!

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